Before dealing with the topic of what a stabilizer bushing is, it would not hurt to refresh the knowledge about the stabilizers themselves, what are they for? The main task of this part is to keep the car as parallel to the road as possible. Despite various risks, for example, turns, braking, which cause both transverse and longitudinal rolls. The stabilizer should cope with them.
In the photo: stabilizer bushings Honda Civic 5D
Stabilizer bush - yellow
At the slightest roll, the ends of the stabilizers begin to move, thereby reducing the roll. The movement occurs along the bushings, which will be discussed. The purpose of the latter is that the stabilizer can twist in different directions. That is why they attach it with bushings. Over time, the bushings are erased, which causes play, which will serve to malfunction for the entire mechanism. The so-called “freedom of detail” increases, then by and large there is no role in the presence of a stabilizer. Because, similarly to its absence, banks increase due to large moves and rotation, controllability is lost and this is felt for the most part in corners.
Kinds
There are several types of bushings:
Rubber bushings.
Polyurethane. Similar to the previous ones, except for the production material.
Recently, motorists prefer polyurethane bushings because of their high performance. As a rule, they "walk" longer. But, it is also individual, depending on how you ride.
Also, do not lose sight of such a nuance that almost every model has its own dimensions and configuration of the bushings, which is why Special attention need to be given to the choice and selection for a specific model. This issue is most acute for foreign cars.
What resource?
This question is quite individual, as such, no manufacturer can give exact “runs”. It all depends on specific conditions operation, keep in mind that bad roads, driving style, all this affects the "life" of the bushing, and indeed the stabilizer mechanism in general.
By the way, bushings are considered the most trouble spot in suspension on Lada Vesta. Almost immediately, a creak begins from the factory, a knock is often added to it while driving over bumps. The problem is that they use low-quality material for manufacturing, which is why the resource of native bushings on Vesta is very small. Everything is tritely simple to be treated, you need to pick up analogues from other models. For example, it is known that bushings from Toyota Kings, Avensis and KIA Rio fit perfectly and do not cause problems for West owners.
Stabilizer bushings Lada Vesta from Kia Rio. Bushing article - Hyundai / Kia 54812-1G100, bracket - 54814-1G000
Judging by the reviews of drivers, the bushings of German brands, which are often installed on the "Germans" from the factory, showed themselves well. For example, native parts can often last more than 150,000 km. Then, when it comes to analogues from China, the resource is reduced several times.
In general, it is generally accepted among motorists that the average “mileage” for a rubber bushing is 70,000 km, more advanced polyurethane ones “run through” 100,000 km. Some manufacturers even recommend a scheduled replacement after 30,000 km in order to avoid the appearance of "surprises". But, as already mentioned, everything is individual, you need to take into account all the features of operation.
It is also worth clarifying such a nuance, the state of the thrust itself (stub) has a huge impact on the resource of the bushings. For example, if there is a working out at the place where the bushing is attached, then the part will definitely not serve the declared period and will not fully cope with the task either. As a rule, after replacing the native bushings, the owners observe a small amount of metal production, somewhere around 1.5 mm. With each replacement of the bushings, the output will only increase, therefore it is more reasonable to replace the entire part in case of heavy wear, so that there is a sense, in general, from the operation of this mechanism.
Symptoms
The following symptoms may indicate that something is wrong with the suspension. And one of the places to check is the stabilizer. So:
There is a slight play when turning the steering wheel.
The car began to "scour" when driving.
In the turns from the side of the wheels, distinct clicks are heard.
The car is driving in one direction.
Vibration is felt.
How to replace?
The issue of replacement for some cars is purely individual, because depending on the model, the mounts may differ. For example, to replace the bushings on the Mazda 6 and 5 from the front, you will also have to remove the tie rods to get to the brackets that secure the bar itself. But, in general, you can draw up a small work plan. So:
Raise the car on a lift or drive it into a pit, for convenience.
Keep in mind that the bolts may not give in even after that. Then the "Bulgarian" comes into play. But first take care to remove the fuel hoses from the "dangerous" zone. Cut off the "ears" of the staples to "free" the bar.
After unscrewing the brackets (clamps), as it were, we remove the stabilizer itself from the subframe, so that it is easier to remove the bushing. Use crowbar.
Pull off the old bushing.
Photo — Drive2.ru
We put on a new part.
Replaced bushing
Please note that in most cases, the collar “sits” extremely poorly on the new bushing, so try to position it as evenly as possible, minimize friction (use lubricant).
We tighten the clamp with a bolt. By the way, we recommend pre-treatment with grease and a bolt with a nut so that in the future there will be no problems with unscrewing.
By the way, such an important nuance during the replacement. You need to change both bushings at once, that is, do not leave the old part on the right side, but on the left, for example, install a new one. There should be new bushings on both sides.
The suspension of a car has one incredibly important function, which is to provide traction. Only in the case when all suspension devices (levers, fasteners, elastic elements, stabilizer bushings) are in good order, you can be sure that overcoming even the most difficult sections of the road will be safe and comfortable.
When cornering, the movement of the car is directly related to the increase or decrease in the load on the inside or outside of the wheels. Stabilizer roll stability The suspension design is designed to provide maximum control of the car's handling and eliminate the possibility of a strong side roll that can occur when cornering.
Anti-roll bar bushings are an indispensable element in almost all modern cars that are equipped with independent suspensions.
Such parts have a fairly simple principle of operation, which lies in the fact that the elastic suspension element automatically lowers the car during a turn, and at this time they raise the car from the side of the roll. This ensures the best possible grip on the road.
You can divide these devices by design:
- twin-pipe, which are equipped with two cylinders, are most often an element of modern cars;
- single-pipe, having only one cylinder.
It should be noted that the stabilizer bushing is one of the essential elements car designs.
There are such types:
- iron (spherical), the design of which is similar to a ball bearing;
- rubber.
Recently, polyurethane stabilizer bushings have become increasingly popular, which are easy to replace, provided that it is necessary, and also have excellent performance characteristics. Motorists note that these details are more convenient.
If such an element malfunctions, it must be replaced, as it can adversely affect the handling and running of the car. If it is deformed or has cracks, noises are possible in the suspension of the car (mainly when hitting an obstacle or when increasing speed). In fact, it is precisely from such noises that it can be determined that there are problems in the suspension.
To determine whether the bushings of the front stabilizer or rear stabilizer need to be changed, it is necessary to carry out suspension diagnostics from time to time, which should indicate malfunctions or prevent them.
If you need to replace them, then you can easily do it yourself. Moreover, the scheme of such a procedure is extremely simple. First you need to remove the bolts with which the clamp is attached. After that, it is necessary to take the stabilizer aside and remove the old parts, and then carefully install the new ones.
According to this scheme, you can replace both the bushings of the rear stabilizer and the front. Thanks to new spare parts, driving a car will become much more comfortable, and you will overcome any obstacles on the road with the least possible difficulty. Moreover, thanks to the new elements, the duration of the racks is significantly increased.
The bushings of the stabilizer struts are also important details vehicle, since they significantly improve the movement and handling of the car, but due to faulty devices, specific noises occur. They are a side effect of the breakdown of such elements. And, of course, the handling of the car is significantly deteriorating.
There are many parameters that are important when purchasing stabilizer bushings. Most car enthusiasts pay attention only to the characteristics of the part, such as diameter and compatibility with a particular car model. But no less important is the service life of a particular part, as well as its quality.
Many people think that quality and service life is a mandatory component, but this is not the case, and each company involved in the production of such parts treats its work differently, and therefore products appear on the market that are radically different in quality. We advise you to trust only proven companies whose products you have already used repeatedly, while not encountering negative aspects. Only then will the new stabilizer bushings make the handling and ride of your car easier and more comfortable.
If you need such details of your car, then you can make a purchase with maximum comfort using our website. We have a huge selection of different parts that you can buy by contacting the supplier directly. If you did not find what you were looking for, you can place an ad and the necessary part will find you in the shortest possible time. In addition, on our website you can sell various spare parts for the car.
The car's suspension is the first to meet all the bumps in the car's path, taking on all the blows from the pits, potholes and other "pleasant" surprises that our roads are full of. Each suspension unit has its own specific purpose, but together they are all designed to dampen the resulting shock loads when the machine is moving, as well as provide proper handling and stability. vehicle when cornering or performing sharp manoeuvres. Parts such as the stabilizer bar bushing often require replacement. You can do the work yourself.
A little about the work of the car suspension
It is not difficult to guess that the level of safety and comfort on the road for both the driver and passengers almost directly depends on the health of the suspension, as well as how well it copes with its tasks.
Each suspension component of a car is designed for a specific function. The levers, together with the trunnions, hold the wheel in the required plane, allowing it to rotate freely in two different planes in parallel (the moment of entering the turn).
Shock absorbers dampen vibrations that occur during movement, thereby guaranteeing a smooth ride of the vehicle. The springs at the same time are designed to ensure the stiffness of the suspension and the return of its components to their original state.
The main components and components of the front suspension of the car
But there is another important detail in the suspension, without which no one modern car does not cost. And this part is a stabilizer. It can be easily seen if the car is driven onto a lift or put on a viewing hole. On the front axle, among the springs, shock absorbers and other levers, a curved steel bar will be easily noticeable, which is fixed to the subframe with one of its shoulders, and with the other to the wheel hub. The stabilizer mounts are not rigid and allow it to move along the axis in one plane.
In the design of the suspension, the stabilizer appeared at the dawn of the automotive industry, when speeds began to reach 20 km / h and above. The introduction of this element into the suspension design made it possible to ensure the stability of the vehicle during cornering and maneuvering.
Thus, the main task of the stabilizer in the process of movement is to distribute the weight of the car body over all its wheels in the event of a roll. In particular, this applies to cases of rather sharp turns or a sudden change in the trajectory of movement.
The principle of operation of the anti-roll bar
On a fairly common type of McFerson suspension today, the stabilizer is a torsion bar working in torsion. This element is rigidly connected to the car body or subframe. The forces arising in the suspension are transmitted to the stabilizer through additional levers, which, due to the hinges, communicate with the suspension. This simple scheme allows you to prevent even a serious roll of the vehicle, and even more so its rollover.
The rear axle is most often equipped with a stabilizer of this type if the car has all-wheel drive. When it comes to cars with rear wheel drive and a solid beam on the rear axle, then the role of the stabilizer is given to the jet rod, also known as the Panhard rod.
Also, a number of Japanese SUVs at one time, in addition to the Panhard rod, were additionally equipped with another stabilizer, which, in the form of a curved rod, went along the beam rear axle and communicated with the power components of the body through small levers.
Stabilizer bushings. Symptoms of a malfunction. Consequences.
For the best damping of vibration and force effects on the car body, the vast majority of suspension elements are connected by means of elastic elements. The same applies to the stabilizer. For its fastening, special bushings (elastic bands, pillows) made of durable rubber or polyurethane are used. Over time, as the vehicle is used, these bushings can begin to collapse and noticeably lose their elasticity. The result of this is the unsatisfactory operation of the stabilizer =. More serious defects may begin to appear, which over time will only grow faster.
Scheme of the device of the stabilizer and the elements of its fastening
The first symptom that portends the replacement of the bushings will be a slight knocking of the suspension. A similar knock can be observed with “tired” shock absorbers. Only in the case of bushings, it will be heard not only in pits and potholes, but also when entering relatively sharp turns. At the same time, the car often feels unnecessarily rolled and sluggish. The knock that appears will be the result of the backlash that has arisen in the connecting nodes of the stabilizer levers due to worn bushings.
If measures are not taken in time, then the knocks will only intensify in the future and will begin to accompany the work of the suspension everywhere due to the increasing deformation and destruction of the bushings. Body roll and excessive steering wheel play may occur. It is possible to “yaw” the car not only in corners, but also in cases of braking or rebuilding. Automakers for the most part advise changing the stabilizer bushings every 30–40 thousand mileage. However, in our conditions it is better to focus on the wear of the bushings. Therefore, a sudden knock and a slight bounce in the corners will be clear signs of an impending component replacement.
As a folk method of checking the bushings for serviceability, it is proposed to move obliquely in 2nd gear of the speed bump. There was a dull knock in the pedal area - most likely, the Khan's bushings. You can also just crawl under the car to inspect everything yourself. A worn bushing will “please” with the presence of cracks and abrasions characteristic of worn and cracked rubber. Auto repairmen sometimes call these cracks "daisies".
Stabilizer bushing and mounting bracket
Also, the rubber of the bushings can simply become dull and lose the necessary elasticity. If the stabilizer bushings cannot be properly examined, then simply swing your hand up and down and to the sides of the stabilizer itself. If you feel play, squeaks and knocks in the lower part of the suspension, then the bushings have become unusable.
But for best result it is better, of course, to call on a flyover, a viewing hole or use a lift. Of the tools, you only need a crowbar or a mounting spatula, which you just need to rest against the bottom of the car and slightly “shake” the stabilizer, at the points of its docking with the body. If a noticeable backlash is felt or a loss of elasticity is found, then it's time to think about replacing the bushings.
The process of replacing the stabilizer bushing
It won't take long to replace bushings. All you need is the right tool, plus a well-lit and comfortable working area. It is unlikely that the average driver will have access to a professional lift during work, so it is better to get a couple of jacks and a special rigid support in advance
Tool you may need
- Open-end wrench and, possibly, box.
- Ratchet with extension.
- Vorotok.
- Cap head.
Required tools for bushing replacement
Work order
- The car is hung on jacks and securely fixed.
- Wheels are taken off. The crankcase protection and fender liner are also dismantled.
View of the stabilizer pad before starting work
- The next step is to lift the lower arm with a jack or place a stop under it. If the bushings are changed on the side of both wheels (which is highly recommended), then it is better to put stops under the axle of the front wheels or use a jack. All this is necessary in order to remove the load from the stabilizer beam and facilitate the further replacement of the bushings.
Lower arm jacked up for easy tire change
- Next, you can loosen on both sides the mounting of the anti-roll bar to the car body or subframe. In case of difficulties with the bolts due to contamination and oxide, treat them with a “weed” or other similar solution to subsequently facilitate their unscrewing.
- The bushing mount and the bushing itself are removed. The latter, for the most part, are now made split, which greatly facilitates the process of removing them.
The old bushing is removed from the stabilizer
- A new bushing is taken and put in place of the old one. Experienced auto repairmen recommend washing well and wiping the seat of the part on the stabilizer. You can also lather the sleeve a little to make it easier to move it, or use a special lubricant, often included in the repair kit.
A pre-soaped or lubricated new bushing is installed
- The bolts of the sleeve clamp are tightened.
New bushing at the end of all work
- The jack or support is removed from under the lever and the wheel is placed.
It must be understood that the device and the complexity of the suspension on different cars may differ markedly and the above instructions are not universal. But for a general understanding of the process and the order of work, it is more than enough.
A selection of videos on replacing bushings on various cars
Replacement for VAZ: video guide
Replacement for Renault Megan 2: video instruction
Replacing the stabilizer rubber bands on the Chevrolet Aveo
Replacing stabilizer bushings on Hyundai Solaris (Accent)
The job of replacing bushings is not a difficult or time-consuming task. Everything about everything can take an hour and a half or two. But even in the price lists of service stations, this service does not belong to the expensive section. So here everyone decides for himself whether to get confused in the garage for an hour or two, or to give the car to the masters and do more pressing matters.
Stabilizers are responsible for the stability of the car on the road. To eliminate noise and vibration from work constituent parts stabilizers, special bushings are used - elastic elements that give a smooth ride.
What is a bushing? The elastic part is created by casting from rubber or polyurethane. Its shape remains almost unchanged for various models machines, but sometimes has some features depending on the design of the stabilizer. To improve the performance of the bushings, sometimes they have tides and grooves. They strengthen the structure and allow the parts to last longer, as well as protect against mechanical stress that can damage them.
When is the cross stabilizer bushing replaced?
You can determine the degree of wear of the bushing during a routine inspection. Cracks, change in the properties of rubber, the appearance of scuffs- all this suggests that part needs to be changed. Bushings are usually replaced every 30,000 km run. Experienced owners advise changing all bushings at once, regardless of their external condition.
During a preventive inspection, the bushings may be contaminated. They should be cleaned of dirt so as not to provoke accelerated wear of the part.
An unscheduled replacement of the bushings is necessary when the following symptoms appear:
- steering wheel play when the car enters turns;
- noticeable beating of the steering wheel;
- body roll, accompanied by characteristic unusual sounds (clicks, creaks);
- vibration in the suspension of the car, accompanied by extraneous noise;
- in a straight line, the car pulls to the side;
- general instability.
Detection of such problems requires urgent diagnosis. Primary attention must be paid to the bushings. By replacing them, you can check the operation of the car, and if signs of a malfunction remain, an additional inspection should be carried out.
Replacing the bushings of the front stabilizer
Regardless of the vehicle model, the general procedure for replacing bushings is the same. Only the tools and some details of the procedure change. Even a novice driver can guess what exactly needs to be done as an additional action.
Front stabilizer bushing
For you need to follow the following points:
- Place the vehicle stationary on a pit or lift.
- Using tools, loosen the front wheel bolts.
- Completely remove the wheels of the vehicle.
- Unscrew the nuts securing the struts to the stabilizer.
- Separate the struts and stabilizer.
- Loosen the rear bolts of the bracket framing the sleeve and unscrew the front ones.
- Using improvised tools, get rid of the dirt in the place where the new bushings will be installed.
- Using silicone spray or soapy water, thoroughly lubricate the bushings from the inside.
- Install the bushings and perform a series of reverse procedures listed to return the vehicle to working condition.
To install new bushings on some car models, it may be necessary to remove the crankcase protection. This will make the replacement process easier.
Replacement rear bushings stabilizer is carried out in a similar way. The only thing is that it is sometimes more difficult to remove the front bushings due to the complexity of the car's design in front. If the driver managed to change the front bushings, then for sure he will cope with the replacement of the rear bushings.
Often the reason for replacing the bushings is the occurrence of their squeak. This factor, although not critical, still causes inconvenience to many drivers and passengers.
Squeaky stabilizer bushings
Causes of squeaks
Often the owners cars complain about the creaking of the stabilizer bushings. Often it occurs during the onset of frost or dry weather. However, the conditions of occurrence are manifested individually. The main reasons for this problem are:
- low quality of the material from which the stabilizer bushings are made;
- hardening of rubber in the cold, because of which it becomes inelastic and creaks;
- significant wear of the bushing or its failure;
- car design features (for example, Lada Vesta).
Problem Solving Methods
Some car owners try to lubricate the bushings with various lubricants(including ). However, as practice shows, this only gives temporary effect(and in some cases it does not help at all). Any lubricant attracts dirt and debris, thus forming an abrasive. And this leads to a decrease in the resource of the bushing and the stabilizer itself. Therefore, we do not recommend that you use any lubricants..
In addition, lubrication of the bushings is also not recommended due to the fact that this violates the principle of their operation. After all, they are designed to tightly hold the stabilizer. Being essentially a torsion bar, it works in torsion, creating resistance to the roll of the car when cornering. Therefore, it must be securely fixed in the sleeve. And in the presence of lubrication, this becomes impossible, since it can still scroll now, while making a creak again.
The recommendation of most automakers regarding this defect is to bushing replacement. So, the general advice for car owners who are faced with the problem of creaking from the stabilizer is to drive with a creak for a certain time (one to two weeks is enough). If the bushings do not “lap in” (especially for new bushings), they will need to be replaced.
Helps in some cases replacing rubber bushings with polyurethane. However, this depends on the machine and bushing manufacturer. Therefore, the responsibility for the decision to install polyurethane bushings lies solely with the car owner.
The stabilizer bushings must be replaced every 20-30 thousand kilometers. Look for the specific value in the manual for your car.
To solve the problem, some car owners wrap the part of the stabilizer that is inserted into the sleeve with electrical tape, thin rubber (for example, a piece of a bicycle inner tube) or cloth. Original bushings (for example, Mitsubishi) have a fabric insert inside. Such a solution will allow the stabilizer to be “fitted” more tightly in the bushing and save the car owner from unpleasant sounds.
Description of the problem for specific vehicles
According to statistics, most often the owners of the following cars face the problem of creaking of the stabilizer bushings: Lada Vesta, Volkswagen Polo, Skoda Rapid, Renault Megan. We describe their features and the replacement process:
- Lada Vesta. The reason for the squeaking of the stabilizer bushings on this machine is suspension structure feature. The fact is that Vesta has a longer stabilizer strut travel than previous VAZ models. Their racks were attached to the levers, while Vesta's were attached to the shock absorbers. Therefore, earlier the stabilizer rotated less, and was not the cause of unpleasant sounds. In addition, Vesta has a large suspension travel, which is why the stabilizer rotates more. There are two ways out of this situation - to shorten the suspension travel (lower the landing of the car), or use a special lubricant (manufacturer's recommendation). It is better to use a wash-resistant lubricant for this purpose, based on silicone. Do not use lubricants that are aggressive towards rubber (also do not use WD-40).
Replacing the stabilizer bushings on the Volkswagen Polo
- Volkswagen Polo. Replacing the stabilizer bushings is not difficult. To do this, you need to remove the wheel and place the machine on a support (for example, a wooden structure or a jack) to relieve stress from the stabilizer. To dismantle the bushing, we unscrew the two 13 bolts that secure the mounting bracket of the bushing, after which we take it out and take out the bushing itself. Assembly is carried out in reverse order.
Another common way to get rid of squeaks in Volkswagen Polo bushings is to place a piece of an old timing belt between the body and the bushing. In this case, the teeth of the belt should be directed towards the bushing. In this case, it is necessary to make small reserves in the area from all sides. This procedure is performed for all bushings. original solution problems - installing bushings from Toyota Camry.
The suspension of any car is always the first to take a hit from road bumps. Depending on the design and settings, the suspension units are designed for the most effective extinguishing impact loads from road surface irregularities, as well as to ensure the controllability and stability of the car at high speeds when cornering, as well as in case of a sharp change in the trajectory of movement (“snake”, obstacle avoidance). And not only comfort, but also the safety of the driver and passengers depends on how efficient the suspension is. Each of the suspension elements performs its role. Pins and levers support the wheel in a given plane, providing unhindered rotation in two planes (when turning).
The principle of operation of stabilizers
Springs provide elasticity and return of suspension elements to their original state, and shock absorbers - smooth running and damping of elastic body vibrations. At the same time, even the perfect operation of the listed elements is not enough to ensure safe movement. If you hang the car on a lift or, in addition to levers, springs and shock absorbers on any modern passenger car, you can see another element - the anti-roll bar. in suspension front axle the stabilizer is a curved lever, attached with one shoulder to the wheel hub assembly, the other - to the subframe. Fasteners - not rigid, with the ability to move along the axis in one plane.
The principle of operation of the stabilizer is to redistribute the weight of the car body over the wheels when it rolls. For example, when passing corners with a small radius or with a sharp change in the trajectory of movement. In the widely used MacPherson type front suspension, the anti-roll bar is a torsion bar that works in torsion. This arm is rigidly connected to the body or subframe. The forces from the suspension are transmitted to it with the help of additional levers pivotally connected to the suspension. Such a simple device is able to prevent a strong roll of the car (and, accordingly, its rollover), while maintaining a straight trajectory.
In the rear axle suspension, the anti-roll bar is usually installed on vehicles with four-wheel drive all wheels. On many rear-wheel drive vehicles with a solid rear axle beam, the role of the stabilizer is performed by a torque rod (Panhard rod). Some all-wheel drive models of Japanese production of past years (Toyota Sprinter Carib, Land cruiser 80, etc.), along with the Panhard rod, are equipped with a stabilizer - a curved rod passing through the entire beam of the rear axle and connected through short levers with the power elements of the body or frame. The principle of operation of the rear stabilizer is similar to the principle of operation of the front one: reducing the overturning moment of the body when it rolls.
Signs of a bad stabilizer bushing
To dampen noise and vibration transmitted from the suspension to the body, all connections are fastened through elastic elements. The stabilizer units, which are attached to the body through metal bushings pressed into rubber, are no exception. As a result of many factors: poor condition of the road surface, the use of aggressive reagents, driving style, etc., the elastic elements of the stabilizer are destroyed. As a result, defects are observed in the operation of the anti-roll bar, which manifest themselves over time on an increasing basis.
The first harbingers of the need to replace the bushings are. In contrast to the knocking of shock absorbers, it occurs not only when driving through road bumps, but also when cornering with a small radius on a flat road surface. They are caused by the appearance of play in the joints of the stabilizer arms as a result of bushing wear. If this is not given importance, then subsequently the "symptoms" may increase.
The rattling knocks of the suspension will intensify and begin to accompany any movement of the suspension elements, as a result of further cracking and deformation of the rubber bushings. Along with this, the car will roll heavily in corners, the body will begin to sway along the transverse axis (if the bushings on both wheels are heavily worn, or if the stabilizer beam breaks). In some cases, the steering wheel begins to "play". The car loses its sharpness of control, it becomes rolled. It is possible to “yaw” and pull towards a faulty suspension element not only when braking, but also when trying to change lanes and trajectory. Other extraneous noises and vibrations may appear in the suspension. Usually, most manufacturers recommend replacing bushings after 30 to 40 thousand kilometers. But the surest signal to replace the stabilizer bushings is rattling and knocking when cornering and body roll.
Suspension inspection
Before inspection, it is desirable to wash and clean all suspension elements, as well as their connections. When visually inspecting all the elastic elements of the suspension, it is easy to detect a damaged part. If the bushing is worn or damaged, abrasions and cracks are visible on it, which are called “daisies” among professional auto mechanics for the characteristic patterns that form rubber elements when cracked. Loss of elasticity, “hardening” of rubber is also a sure sign of an upcoming replacement. If for some reason (lack of a lift, a viewing hole or the nearest service station) it is not possible to inspect the stabilizer bushings, you can determine the degree of wear by the presence of knocks. It is enough to rest your hands on the upper part of the roof (B-pillar) and shake the car a little from side to side. The presence of knocks, creaks and their localization in the lower part of the suspension can serve as an indirect indication for the replacement of elastic bushings.
For a more detailed inspection, it is necessary to hang the car on a lift, or drive it onto a flyover or viewing hole. To determine the condition of the elements of the anti-roll bar, it is necessary to shake the junctions of all suspension arms using a crowbar or mounting blade. To do this, it is necessary to lean with a mounting blade in the place of attachment to the body, without damaging the protective coating and, with a slight rocking, alternately press on all the stabilizer mounts to be checked. If during such a manipulation in at least one joint there is a significant backlash, or vice versa - a loss of elasticity - then half the battle is already done! It remains only to replace the worn bushing.
Video - How to replace the stabilizer bushings on a VAZ
How to change stabilizer bushings
To replace rubber bushings front stabilizer with minimal loss of time and less effort, all work is best done not on a lift or on a jack, when all the wheels of the car are hung out, but on a viewing hole using a jack, supports or several jacks. Before replacing worn stabilizer elements, for convenience, the car is first hung out on a lift or jack. After hanging and securely fastening, for access to the parts of the stabilizer, remove the wheel (wheels on the same axle), fender liner and crankcase protection. After that, the stabilizer mounts are loosened, including the mounting brackets to the body or subframe.
If threaded connections do not lend themselves due to oxides or heavy contamination, in order to avoid tearing off the edges or cutting off the bolts, it is necessary to treat them with a special liquid that facilitates unscrewing. Before loosening the fasteners, it is necessary to raise the lower arm with a jack or put a stop. When replacing the bushings in the suspension of both wheels (which is more desirable), it is necessary to jack up or set the stops on the axles of the front wheels.
This procedure is necessary to remove the load from the stabilizer beam for easier bushing replacement. After all these conditions are met, it is possible to remove the fasteners from the bracket and press out the bushing with its subsequent replacement with a new one. On most car models, the stabilizer bushings are split. This is done for ease of installation. Stabilizer repair kits are made of rubber or polyurethane.
Original repair kits always have the correct amount of grease to lubricate the inside of the bushings before replacement. The assembly of all stabilizer assemblies and other elements of the car is carried out in the reverse order. For a longer service life of the bushings, it is necessary to periodically clean the stabilizer brackets from sand and road dirt.
